Many people's mechanical keyboards have been used for a long time, and the keys will fail or the LED lights will not light up. Generally, this situation is caused by the damage of the shaft body or the aging of the LED lamp. You only need to replace the damaged parts to return to normal, but sometimes due to external force or other reasons, the buttons fail or the lights do not turn on, you need to re-solder the corresponding shaft plate to solve the problem. It happened that I used a HyperX in the past two days. Let’s use Aloy’s car with a perforated shaft plate as an example to talk about how to easily find the correct wiring point and repair the hard drive without using a multimeter.
It can be seen that the position of punching this time is on the number 7 key in the small keyboard area.
Turn over to look at the shaft plate, wipe off the solder joints of half of the shaft feet. The difficulty of repairing such a perforated keyboard depends entirely on luck. If the excessive wiring on the PCB is not damaged, fewer keys and lights will be affected, otherwise more keys and lights will be affected. The next step is to determine which keys are affected.
Plug the keyboard directly into the computer, and the three lights will not light up, but don't be too happy, there is one light in the middle, which means that the problem must not be so simple. Let's test the keys first.
Professionals can download a keyboard testing software such as KTU. We only need to test whether the keys are effective, so it is enough to open a web page for testing keys. After a round of testing, as expected, the punched number 7 is indeed out of order. The good news is that apart from the number 7, only the number 4 is affected, so our subsequent repair work will be easier. .
At this time, we stand up the shaft plate, find a wire or other things that can carry electricity, and test the button with electricity.
First test 7, directly short the contacts of the two shaft pins from the rear, which is equivalent to simulating the effect of pressing the button.
It’s amazing, although one of the pivot points has been pinned off in half, it can still be triggered. If you look carefully, the key can’t be used at the beginning because the pin of the silver pivot was completely cut off during drilling. , so, only need to replace a shaft, this key can be repaired without damage. In the next step, we will test the key position of number 4 again.
I forgot to take the picture of directly shorting the two pins of 4, let’s just talk about the result, it will not trigger. So try to connect as shown in the picture below, and short-circuit one of the pins of 4 and the pin of 1 below. Here, be careful not to short-circuit the pins at the same position, and cross-connect them like the one in my picture. It is known that the two pins of key 1 are normal, so if we short-circuit as shown above and no key is triggered, it proves that the pin of number 4 is broken and a flying wire is needed. Then we use the same method to test another point of the number 4.
The test result is not bad, this point is connected, and the number 1 is lit, which shows that the point of the number 4 we tested is collinear with the point of the number 1, but the point of the broken circuit and the number 1 Not collinear. In other words, if we are going to repair the pin that digital 1 did not test, we are done here. But we are repairing the number 4, so the next step is to find other buttons that are in line with the point where the number 4 is disconnected, and then fly on such a line, and the problem will be solved instantly.
Tried around the surrounding points, lit up countless buttons, and finally found that the pin of END and number 4 is collinear.
It can be seen that when these two points are shorted, the number 4 key is triggered. So in the next step, we only need to fly a line to connect the pin that is not tested by the number 4 (the one that confirms the open circuit is not the connected one in the picture), and the pin that is now tested by the END key. This is achieved by pressing the number 4 to automatically trigger the effect. If you directly connect the two points on the picture, it would be interesting. After the keyboard is plugged in, the number 4 key will be in a long-press state. Alright, now that both keys are done, the next step is soldering.
Solder suction device plus hollow needle, easy to get. It is strongly recommended to prepare a hollow needle to assist when removing the shaft, the shaft diameter is 1.2, and the lamp is removed with a diameter of 1.0. It is inevitable that there will be very few cases where the tin suction device is not clean. If you want to rework, you have to fill up the tin and re-operate. With the hollow needle, you only need to simply heat it and insert it to poke it.
Replace with a new shaft body, and the number 7 key will return to normal after normal welding.
The number 4 is simpler, just solder a short enameled wire to connect the two solder joints we just mentioned. So far all the buttons are back to normal, and the maintenance is complete.
Next we'll fix the lights.
Of the four pins of the 4-pin RGB light, three of them control the three colors of RGB respectively, and the extra one is a common pin, some of which are common cathode and some are common anode. If the common pin is broken, the performance is that the light is off. If the color pin is open, the performance is lack of color. If the common pin and the color pin are shorted, the performance is that a certain color is always on. In fact, these are not too important, it is just background knowledge. In actual operation, we still use the old method, connection test.
Here we should pay attention to the shared pin. The RGB lights of this hard drive share the third pin. The method to confirm the shared pin is also very simple. The shared pin is generally longer than other pins. Then I found the pin definition diagram of this REB light. In fact, it doesn’t matter if there is no picture, we only need to know that the color and function of each lamp corresponding to the pin control are the same, and the problem can be found by trying a few times.
When repairing the light, we need something that can act as a mirror to reflect the light, so as to observe the effect of our short circuit. The lights of the keyboard are connected vertically and in parallel, and because the light of the number 4 is on, and the hole of the number 7 is interrupted, so the first step we test is to short the common pin of the two lights, that is, What happens on the third foot.
Sure enough, the light turned on. Although the color was wrong, a good start was half the battle. This proved that the shared pin was indeed broken. Let me tell you here, it doesn’t matter if you don’t know which is the shared pin, the big deal is to short-circuit and try from 1-1, 2-2, 3-3, 4-4 in this order, and you will find the problem after up to four times. Then there is welding, which is different from repairing buttons. We have to test welding once, so that we can carry out the following test.
Soldering is very simple, like this, the enameled wire flies a bit, and it's done.
At this time, when we observe, we will find that these keys with wrong colors are lacking in color. When the other lights are pink, they are blue, which is the lack of red. We test the effect of shorting the red pin.
Facts have proved that it works, except for one light with the wrong color, everything else is normal.
What are you waiting for? Keep flying!
Our next step is to look at the last stubborn light. At present, it seems that the problem of this lamp is not an open circuit, but a short circuit. Some two or three circuits are shorted, causing the displayed color to be inconsistent with other lamps. For this situation, there are two solutions: the first one is more foolish, remove all four pins, then insulate the interface of the shaft plate, and fly four wires to the lamp pin of any normal lamp in this row superior. The disadvantage is that it is more troublesome to fix, and I feel that it is more likely to cause problems in the follow-up, such as false connections or short circuits. Another way is to insulate the common leg separately, and then test which way can mix the correct color with other lights. I used the latter method, and first insulated the common pin.
It is not convenient to use thick wires this time, so I soldered a flying lead on the common pin, and then used the other end to test.
Finally, when the second pin of the above light is connected, the light will become normal. (To be honest, I am too lazy to analyze why. It feels like the green and red are short-circuited, so that the green will go all the way alone, so it is normal).
Then use black oil to insulate the pad, and then fly a wire in the air.
Plug in the power and test it, the light is completely normal, get it done.
To be on the safe side, fix the dangling pins with hot glue.
At this point the fix was triumphantly over and a keyboard was brought back to life. Install the bottom case and put on the keycap.
Feel the joy of light pollution.